Self Help - Page 2

Switch off the hot and cold water supplies to the bath taps.

Open the taps to drain the water.

If the bath has a decorative side panel, remove this to provide access to the plumbing.

Although it is usually possible to undo the supply and waste connections, it is a lot easier to simply cut through the pipes at a convenient point with a small hacksaw. Have a bucket and sponge or rags to hand, as there will be some spillage when these cuts are made.

Undo any wall fixings.  These may be burried under tiling, in which case you can anticipate some breakages.  Carefully remove any supports under the bath, or wind down the legs so that it can be lowered to prevent to prevent unnecessary damage to a tiled surround. If there is a mastic seal around the bath, you may find it helpful to run a craft knife through this before removal. Take care with cast iron baths as they are extremely heavy.

Remove the bath. If a cast iron bath is beyond repair, it will be easier to break it up for removal. If it’s in reasonable condition, but just not to your liking, consider selling it as they are quite desirable.

To break up a cast iron bath, put on protective goggles, gloves and ear defenders. Lay some old sheeting or a blanket over the bath and break it up using a heavy duty hammer.  Take care, as the fragments may be extremely sharp.

Stand the new bath in position and adjust the feet to the required height. Make sure the bath is level. Mark the wall to show the position of the taps and the new waste outlet.

Remove the bath.

Extend the waste and supply pipes to the vicinity of the marked taps and waste outlet. These should terminate in a location which will still allow you to reposition the bath, but also afford you access to making the final connections. This will prevent the need for you to squeeze your hand between the bath and wall and fiddle with awkward connections.

Assemble and fit the waste outlet for the bath. Follow the manufacturer's instructions regarding the position of gaskets and/or use of sealant. Assemble the overflow pipe. The systems for these vary, but they generally connect back down to the main waste point.

Insert and fix the taps again following the manufacturer’s instructions.

If the taps have tail pipes with them, shape and fit these. Otherwise, cut a couple of lengths of copper pipe to make your own tails. These should be gently shaped, and long enough to ensure that their connection to the supply pipes can be made in comfort. Fit these to the taps using the supplied tap connectors.

Move the bath into position and check all pipework alignment before securing using the recommended fixings.

Connect the tails which you fitted earlier to the supply pipes. It is generally best to use compression fittings to do this. Use of a blowtorch next to a plastic bath is asking for trouble! Consider using in line isolating valves for the final connection. These will provide a means of switching off the water supply in the case of leaks or for maintenance.

Connect the trap to the waste outlet and to the waste pipe.  Where space beneath the bath is limited, a shallow trap may be used.   But, in this case, the waste must go to a gulley not to a soil stack.

Before fitting a side panel to the bath, switch on the water supply and check all work for leaks. This should include the waste. Don’t forget to check the overflow as well by filling the bath. It is a lot easier to discover a leak now on the overflow rather than relying on a wet ceiling below to tell you.

It is not always practical to carry out a permanent repair immediately on a leaking pipe.

Isolate the water supply to the pipe concerned and drain it down.

A temporary repair can be effected until a permanent repair is possible.

There are two simple techniques which can be employed for this.

Take a piece of garden hose of sufficient diameter to go round the pipe. Cut it lengthways and place it over the damage. Fasten with at least three jubilee clips. One in the centre and one at either end. By tightening these sufficiently, you should be able to seal the hose against the pipe so that no further water escapes.

Alternatively, use a proprietary brand of epoxy putty. This is a two-part mix which dries hard and will bond itself to most metals provided they are dry. Clean the area of pipe either side of the damage, with emery paper - the putty may not stick otherwise. Mix the two components together as detailed in the manufacturer’s instructions. Press it into place over the damage and smooth it out with a small filling knife. Check to see what thickness is required and also how long it should be left before allowing water to flow through the pipe again.

Permanent repair

Whilst a temporary repair can overcome the immediate problem, it is always advisable to carry out a permanent solution as soon as possible.

Drain the affected pipework.  Cut out the damaged section and fit a new length of pipe with compression or solder fittings at each end.

The supply of water to these is made via flexible hoses with isolating valves. These enable the machine to be moved for maintenance work. Depending on the machine, there may be cold supply only or both hot and cold.

If the machine is to be sited next to a sink or other existing plumbing installation, the supplies and waste can be branched to this relatively easily. Otherwise new pipe runs will need to be installed to the new location.

Switch off the water and drain down the pipes to which you intend making your connection. If you are branching from an existing pipe, cut the pipe and fit a "T" shape fitting. This will mean making two cuts in the pipe to make room for the fitting.

Connect the fitting (soldered or compression, depending on space and preference).

Fit a length of pipe between the "T" and the position of the new machine.

Fit an isolating valve in this branch to allow for maintenance later.   Several makes of appliance connectors have integral isolating valves.

Fit a connector to the end of the pipe to which the rubber hose from the machine will fit. Check the size and thread on this before buying.

There are several options for the waste disposal from such machines. Check the manufacturer’s details for recommendations. The most common is for the flexible waste outlet to be fed into a standpipe arrangement. The diameter of the pipe should be 40 mm.

Run a waste pipe through the external wall to discharge to the drainage system.  This should have sufficient fall (dropping downhill) for the volume of water. This is normally recommended as 6mm per 300mm length.

Fit a deep trap to the inside end at floor level adjacent to the machine. Cut and fit a standpipe to the top of the trap. The usual length for this is 600mm from the base of the trap. Secure this, and any other pipework, with clips.

Insert the flexible waste into the standpipe by the recommended amount.

Switch on the water supply and test the plumbing.

An alternative for connecting the supply pipes is to use self-boring fittings. Check with your water supply company first as not all suppliers approve of their use.

Mount the fitting over the pipe and fix to the wall. Follow the instructions carefully regarding the assembly and alignment of components. Ensure that the valve is in the off position then insert it and screw home. Tighten the lock nut then connect the flexible hoses for the machine. Switch on the valve and check for leaks.